PARIS (AP) — Colorful fall-winter menswear shows in Paris mixed high culture, androgyny and streetwear, as Paris Jackson, the daughter of the late pop icon Michael Jackson, stepped out for the cameras at Givenchy’s library show— fittingly in the City of Light.
Here are highlights:
PARIS IN PARIS
The budding 18-year-old model and daughter of music royalty posed with a black Givenchy knit sweater that read “I Feel Love” and combat boots at Riccardo Tisci’s Paris show.
Jackson — often protected from the paparazzi since her father’s death — has tried to carve out a signature personal style in the last year as she has started to make public her strong interest in the fashion industry.
With swept back blond hair, Jackson exuded grown-up calm in oversize dark glasses as she posed for cameras at the old wooden doors of the Richelieu-Louvois library in the Bibliotheque Nationale de France.
As she took her front row seat at Tisci’s show inside, understated was not the word.
Circles, stars and stripes set off bold colors and patterns that blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, sportswear and a kind of domestic apron.
The Italian-born designer’s signature penchant for sportswear styles was evident in sneakers with horizontal lacing and sweaters that evoked a loose basketball top silhouette.
The contrast of bookishness against street designs was not lost on the fashion press.
Long, masculine check shirts sported the myriad frills of an apron or delicate blouse. The androgynous musing reached a climax when Kendall Jenner strutted out ravishingly in a full-on, embellished blue check dress with arm slits.
It was high baroque.
AFTER TRAGEDY, VOGUE ITALIA GETS NEW DIRECTION
The year 2016 will long be remembered for the sheer number of high-profile talents who suddenly passed away.
The fashion world did not escape this grim trend, being stunned in December when lauded Vogue Italia Editor Franca Sozzani died after battling a yearlong illness.
Sozzani was among the fashion industry’s most familiar faces, having led the Italian magazine for a formidable 28 years.
Friday marked new beginnings for the iconic magazine — a topic that filled front row chatter at Paris Fashion Week.
Parent company Conde Nast announced in a communique that former GQ magazine director Emanuele Farneti will take over the role at Vogue Italia and L’Uomo Vogue.
It praised the Italian-born fashion director’s proven expertise, admiration within the industry and talent.
MAISON MARGIELA’S HUMBLE ATTITUDE
A pared down decor meant that Maison Margiela’s fall-winter show was all about the clothes.
This humble attitude was no bad thing in an industry where rushed, sky’s-the-limit presentations increasingly overpower the artistry of the clothes — the very reason fashionistas attend the shows in the first place.
Continuing a go-to theme for the quirky house, the leitmotif in the brief 21 looks was, as the house termed it, “a quiet celebration of the unfinished garment.”
Frayed cords, unfurling hems, long waistcoats with no undergarment, unfinished prints and faded jeans transposed a nice crude look.
Raw materials added to this — such as calico, dry cotton, upholstery velvet, distressed tweeds and denim.
Call it minimalism mixed with a faint tirade of irony against the pressurized, fast-paced industry.
Juun J. presented a flamboyant fall-winter collection — in the grand Rive Gauche stone hall of Paris’ Universite Rene Descartes.
The South Korean designer used Friday to present an archive-inspired show that traced his collections through the past 10 years.
Signature styles — oversize silhouettes, flattened torsos, military wear, gangster-like pin stripes and trench coats — were in abundance.
And women modeling the looks, as well as men, drove home a sense of androgyny in the designs.
Some fashionistas pointed and commented on the myriad straps and tassels gently flapping from voluminous rucksacks like balletic ribbons.
With its 43 looks, the collection nicely fused the concept of the utilitarian with a stylish delicacy.
Thomas Adamson can be followed at https://www.twitter.com/ThomasAdamson_K
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